I have a t-5 trans ser # 1352065908 mated to a 65
fairlane 289 hipo in a cobra kit car. I believe the
trans is an 85-89 model. I have had the trans out for
a leak running down the curled pan. The Ford deal-
er pulled and replaced everything with seals. The
front spline housing was cracked and was welded?
Also an ear was broken off the casing but it tightened
up ok and works fine, but it has begun to leak again.
Should I continue to work with this,up grade to another
t-5, or even go to a tremec? The car is not raced but
I do like to "use" it occasionally.

In regards to Dave's Cobra leaking T5...The 1352065908 number is just a casting number and you need to find the tag number on the tailhousing to see what model year you have. T5's shouldn't leak and as a rule don't have leaking problems. I'd say fix it correctly.

By S.B Davis August 11,1998 @ 10:59pm

I have a 5.0 liter 1988 mustang GT with 129,000 miles,and I'm original owner. The problem I'm haveing is a transmission fluid leaking from the rear seal,no second gear and hard shifting. I've replaced the rear seal,bushing and slip yoke. Will the rebuild kit fix my problem.

ON SB Davis's question about a leaking T5.... I guess the replacement of the bushing and seal didn't help.. if it did the reason Mustang GT's wear out the bushing and rear seal is because of bad engine mounts. A bad mount causes the gearbox to torque up against the driveshaft yoke. What does no second gear mean? Do you get it and it grinds or it go in but is not there... people when you post on this board please be more specific...

I have a 1985 Mustang GT with a 351W. My problem is that the tranny grinds alot when I shift into 3rd unless I do it very slowly. 2nd and 4th fourth are also starting to grind if I really slam it into them. I have a sneaky suspicion (actually I'm pretty sure) that the syncros are worn out and it needs to be rebuilt. I need to know how to identify the year and model, and if your rebuild kit includes everything I need to get it shifting like new.

Thanks

Where is a good place to buy replacement parts for the T5. I'm looking for a mainshaft. (mine has a bad bearing surface).. Ford has one, but the price is quite expensive..

To Andrew Nicholson: It is unusual that all rings are starting to grind and fail. On Mustangs clutch release is the primary problem. If you can't go into reverse without it grinding you have a bad release problem. which kills the synchro rings real fast in this box.
Check you release by getting the car warmed up in neutral then press on the pedal and count to 10. Then put it in reverse. If it still grinds then you need to get a new cable or quandrant or both. 1985 was a split year and you can have either a world class or non world class. If all of your synchros are brass it is NON. If they are of fiber composition it is WC.

We sell new mainshafts with or without rings, Prices without rings or sliders are $90.00 with the whole deal they are $175.00

Call us at 561-447-9594

I am interested in a Hydraulic release bearing, I have put a t-5 out of a 86 mustang into a 240z car. I want to use a Hyraulic TO bearing. (This tranny will be sitting behind a 5.0 motor and it's t5 bellhousing).

What brands are available to me? what other items do I need inside the bellhousing to make a Hyd. bearing work, where a mechanical once was? what clutch master cylinder spec's are required? (piston bore and travel?)

Thank you for any information you can provide..

For Schin: Hydraulic release bearings are made by Mcleod and seem to us to be the best on the market. Call their tech service at 714-630-3668 ask for RED.

I have a 57 fairlane with a 390, and was told that a T5 would mate to the FE block. Does anyone know if this is true and if the T5 would hold up to the 390? Is there any aftermarket T5s available that are strengthened over stock? Thanks

I have a 1988 Mustang GT. The car has 70,000 miles on it and has never given me a problem, until now. The car has been sitting since August. Well, I went out to move it and the car fired right up but will not shift. It is a five speed and was in reverse. I pushed in on the clutch, the shifter felt like it moved about a half an inch and just stopped. It is out of reverse, but not all the way up to neutral. The transmission itself is out of gear because when I let off of the clutch it will not move. The shifter feels like it is welded in place. The car has been driven normally, no racing (well not in the past couple of years) or anything like that. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Update on previous message. Pulled the shifter off, used a screwdriver and popped it fully into neutral. Moves freely just like it should. Until it got to third gear. Now it is stuck in third. Tried the same thing but with no luck this time. Unlike most people, I don't have a garage or anywhere to pull the whole thing out because I live in an apartment. None of the gears were grinding, it felt a little stiff trying to move the shifter but I didn't force it. Diagnosis anyone?????

I am replacing my C4 transmission in my '68 mustang with a T5. I want to disassemble and inspect the T5 before doing the conversion. Can I get some documentation on the T5's. I can only find info on upgrading the bearing retainer so far. Thanks

Thanks for the "timely" response. (Whenever you get around to it)

To Bill Howells: Some T5 vendors in the Ford Mags may have some orignal Borg Warner T5 Books left. Otherwise GM shop manuals seem to be available more than the Ford ones. The Camaro overhaul manual for a 6 cylinder 1995-1996 car has some nice info in it.

To Randy: Your 3-4 shift keys are jamming the box up. This is a common problem. You will need to take the box apart because this is caused by worn 3-4 synchro rings. As the rings flatten out on the gear the keys have room to pop out of the slider hub. Usually it will get stuck in either 4th or 3rd. New rings and keys and our special spring will prevent this from happening again. Call us at 561-447-9594

By Paul Cangialosi (Admin) on Sunday, November 15, 1998 - 08:03 pm:

To people wanting a timely response. Please note: You can email me directly at support@5speeds.com. Some responses may appear not to be answered on this board but in fact may have been answered directly via email. I only monitor the discussion board about 2 times a week. I do have a life! So email me directy and I will answer you faster. The idea of the board is so that we can develop a library of common problems and knowledge that can be shared by everyone. The choice is yours.

IS THERE CASTING #S TO TELL IF I HAVE A 289 HYPO OR JUST A REGULAR 289

I have a '88 t-5. while tearing it down 22 needle bearings fell out. We cannot find where they go. I do not have a service manual or break down: and i don't know where to find one.help-

TO JCHlomes. I have a T-5 transmission,out of a 87 mustang,in my garadge that I have taken apart. When I started to disassimble it, many needle bearings fell out.
The bearings that fell out on me went around the main shaft between the shaft that sticks out on the engine side of the transmission. That is the only needle bearings that I can think of that fall out like that.
I hope that helps you.

I have a '94 Mustang GTwith an AODE transmission. It has 90,500 miles on it. The transmission has problems staying in overdrive. At cruising speeds, it will occassionally slip out of 4th and into 3rd. There is some leakage but the oil level is okay. Is it time to rebuild? or can this problem be fixed. Also, I am interested in a t-5 conversion and roughly how expensive that would be.

Thanks for you time.

I have an 87 IROC and it is equipped with the borg warner t-5. It has 112,000 miles on it and will not shift into 3rd and 4th gears. Does anybody know a rebuild kit for the camaro version? I would appreciate any of you blue oval guys for some info.

I have an 88 GT, my problem is that one day I was driving quite hard and I power shifted into 2nd I broke my drivshaft yoke also taking the rear casing of the t-5 with it. The yoke is only 6 months old and has never had slicks used with it. I also noticed my tranny was whining quite loud just a couple of days before. I guess my question is what might have been the cause of the yoke breaking? And yes the tranny was full of fluid at all times.

HELP!!!!!!! I need a t-5 tranny, i live in the boston area, i'm converting an old police car to manual, but i cant find one!!!!

I am buying a manual 5 speed for my 67 mustang with a 302.
There is a shop near my house that has a 5 speed manual.But i don't know which transmission it is.
it is not a Mustang T5(borg-warner), because the bellhousing and the transmission is one piece.I can't take off the bell housing.
the 5 gear is 0.75 and it fits in my 302.It is the same pattern.
Can you guys help me?Could you tell me the model of my tranny>?
Thanks

I have located a gearbox (T5 BW) but I am not sure if it will work in my 67 coupe (289 Windsor block)
the casting number in the gear box is 1352-210. The gear box is in an other state and I can't measure the input shaft lenght or pilot bush diameter.
can any one help me with this number

> hi,
> could you give me an email where I can have information about the
> difference
> between 1993 T-5 and 1994-1995 T-5 transmission on a mustang Ford: Input shaft length,transmission mount position and shifter position.
>
>
> thank you,

i just dropped the trans T-5 to get the tail housing off and IT WON'T COME APART!!!WTF i have the hosing seperated and the shifter linkage won't come and the top cover won't come either.To top it all off IT WON'T GO BACK TOGETHER NOW!!
I've been messin' with this thing for 6hrs now and I'm about freek out!!!!sorry I'm frustrated!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
please, HELP my dumb azz
thanks jon
85GT
PS did I mess anything up doing this? I started this just to change the damn output shaft bushing....oh the HORROR!

To Andre: All mustang T5's have the same dimensions from 1983 to present. The 4.6L and 2.8L T5's have longer inputs. The shifter centerline from the front face is 19.5 inches.